What Chemical Exfoliant Is Right for You?

If your skincare goals consist of a clear, glowing, and smooth complexion, exfoliation will help you reach the finish line.

Exfoliation doesn't just refer to gritty formulas that physically remove dead skin cells from your face. Certain skincare acids chemically dissolve the buildup — no scrubbing required. There are a handful of chemical exfoliants used in skincare, with AHAs and BHAs being the most popular.

One isn't better than the other, but AHAs and BHAs do treat different skin issues. It's also common to see both types of acids together in skincare formulas for maximum results for certain skin issues, such as acne.

Ahead, we tapped two top dermatologists to help us understand how the two chemical exfoliants work, what makes them different, and how to use them in your skincare routine.

What Are AHAs?

AHAs are short for alpha-hydroxy acids. These natural plant- and animal-derived acids are commonly used to treat dry skin, aging skin, a d acne. "Commonly used AHAs in skincare are lactic and glycolic acids," explains Dr. Melanie Palm, a California-based board-certified dermatologist at Art of Skin MD.

With age, our skin tends to accumulate more dead skin cells as our natural skin cell cycle slows down. Unfortunately, this can make your skin look dull. "AHAs are primarily used to help exfoliate, which works by removing the top layers of dead skin cells to make way for new skin cell generation," Dr. Palm explains.

AHAs can be found in many types of skincare products, including serums, toners, masks, and moisturizers. "AHAs have gained popularity in skincare due to their ability to target the superficial layer of skin, therefore helping with skin texture, tone, hyperpigmentation, acne, the appearance of fine lines, and more," Dr. Palm says.

What Are BHAs?

BHAs stand for beta-hydroxy acids. These chemical exfoliants break down oil and dead skin cells that clog pores. "The most common BHA is salicylic acid," shares Dr. Sheila Farhang, an Arizone-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of Avant Dermatology. "This ingredient is best used for oily and acne-prone skin." Willow bark extract is a natural ingredient that converts itself into salicylic acid and is commonly used in skincare formulas.

Salicylic acid is known to fight bacteria, which is why it's also used as a treatment for warts. (Dr. Farhang calls out Compound W).

As far as skincare products go, BHAs are commonly found in spot treatments, pimple patches, serums, toners, chemical peels, masks, and even some foundation formulas catered to oily and acne-prone skin.